Czech Pale Lager — decoction mash

czech lagerIn the United States, about half the beer consumed is light lager, a relatively bland, lower alcohol product mass marketed to a wide audience. In the Czech Republic, there is also a consumer preference for a lower alcohol beer; however, that’s where the comparison ends. The Czech pale lager is lower alcohol, but high in flavor. Think of it as a session version of its big brother, the Czech premium pale lager (also known as Bohemian Pilsner or Czech Pilsner in export markets). In fact, both the Czech pale lager and Czech Pilsner were initially brewed by Josef Groll around 1842-1843.

Sensory Profile

The Czech pale lager is a new style added to the 2015 Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Style Guidelines. Its defining characteristics are similar to the more well known (and widely exported) Czech premium pale lager — a smooth, hoppy, pale lager with a bitter balance and a rich supporting malt character with the grainy, sweet flavors of Pilsner malt. Often showcasing the spicy-herbal-floral Czech Saaz hops, this style has a bit more body and color than equivalent products from Germany.

While called a pale lager, the actual color is more golden (light gold to deep gold) rather than straw or yellow. The deep gold color can almost touch the amber range. A white, per-sistent head is characteristic, and the clarity is normally good (maybe not quite as clear as German Pils examples). The body is in the medium-light to medium range, again a bit more than German counterparts.

One of the aspects of Czech lager that separates it from German lager is the attenuation. German lagers are typically fully attenuated (i.e., all fermentable extract has been converted into alcohol, leaving the beer completely dry). Czech lagers, on the other hand, often have a little bit of unfermented extract remaining in the beer. This gives it a little more body and mouthfeel, and increases the malty flavors. In a less bitter beer, this might be seen as adding sweetness, but it’s not really perceived that way.

The water used in brewing Czech beers typically has a very low mineral content, which allows a high hopping rate to give a clean bitterness without harshness. The little bit of unfermented extract and extra body, along with a generally more robust flavor profile, gives Czech beers a more balanced taste than the dry and often minerally German versions. This is a picky detail that many beer drinkers will not notice; they might just say that the Czech versions seem a bit more complex, malty, and rich when compared to their German cousins.

The strength is in the 3.0 to 4.1% ABV range, with additional variations based on starting gravity. Czechs typically categorize their beer by color and strength, so this style is a světlé (pale) lager with an original gravity (OG) from 1.032 to 1.043 (7 to 10.9 °P). The gravity ranges for the different categories of beer are a legal requirement in the Czech Republic.

In the Czech Republic, a beer in this lower gravity range is known as výčepní (draft beer, which is also the Czech word for bartender). To my ear, this sounds like “vih-CHEP-nee” in English. “Normal” or “full” strength beers (1.044 to 1.051/11 to 12.9 °P, roughly 4.5 to 5.5% ABV) are called ležák (lager), so there is a similarity between these beers and the categorization of American light lagers. As a draft product, this beer style is rarely seen outside its local region. I’m not aware of any export versions, so don’t bother looking for this on your local retailer’s shelf.

Brewing Methods

Czech beers are traditionally produced using decoction mashes, a practice that has largely been replaced in Germany with step mashes. Czech malts are often a bit undermodified, but Czech brewers will still perform decoction mashes with highly modified malts because of the flavor advantages. Czechs feel the mash program will improve the drinkability, flavor, and body of the beer while improving mash efficiency and creating a smooth beer with individual character and increased stability.

Decoction mashing involves removing a portion of the mash (called the decoction) and boiling it in a separate vessel, often with mash rests along the way. Double decoction is the most common Czech method, with Pilsner Urquell being the beer most commonly associated with a triple decoction. The multiple decoction methods simply mean that more than one decoction is pulled during the mash schedule.

A traditional Czech double decoction mash might look like this:

  1. Mash in at 122 °F (50 °C) and hold for 10 minutes.
  2. Pull a thick decoction (one-third to one-half the mash), continuing to hold the main mash at 122 °F (50 °C).
  3. Step the decoction (raise the rest temperature via direct heating or an infusion of boiling water) to 144–147 °F (62–64 °C) and hold for 10 minutes.
  4. Step the decoction to 158 °F (70 °C) and hold for 10 minutes.
  5. Step the decoction to boil, and boil for 20 minutes.
  6. Remix the decoction into the main mash, raising the main mash to 144–147 °F (62–64 °C) and holding.
  7. Pull a second thick decoction, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 minutes.
  8. Remix the decoction into the main mash, raising the main mash to 158 °F (70 °C) and hold for 30 minutes.

The color and flavor development in a decoction program comes from the Maillard reaction, which is a non-enzymatic browning process where amino acids and reducing sugars in malt and wort react in a moist, high temperature environment to create rich flavors and deeper colors typically associated with roasted or seared foods that have developed a rich, brown color. It’s a complex chemical reaction that can produce hundreds of flavor compounds as well as brown-colored melanoidins.

Czech malts are traditional, but German malts can certainly be used; a grain bill of mostly Pilsner malt (95% and up) is common, often with a small bit of caramel-type or color malt. Extract brewers should use a Pilsner malt extract.

Czech hops (especially the Saaz variety) are characteristic for the style, particularly in the flavor and aroma. Pilsner-type beers normally are brewed using water with a very low mineral content; sulfates in particular are typically avoided. A Czech or a clean, malty German yeast strain works best, as Czech beers often have a very small bit of residual unfermented extract.

The hop character of the beer should be evident in the bitterness, flavor, and aroma. Three hop additions or more are common, but dry hopping is not a traditional method. The fermentation profile is relatively clean, but not as clean as German beers. Low background levels of diacetyl and esters might be present, but aren’t required; they should not adversely affect the flavor balance in any event.

Homebrew Example

In January I judged at the Upper Mississippi Mash Out in St. Paul, Minnesota, which is a large (1,000 entry) homebrew competition. This year the Best of Show beer was a Czech pale lager, entered as a “Specialty Beer” under the 2008 BJCP Style Guidelines. The brewer was local, so I was able to interview him as well as the best of show judges. He also provided me with his score sheets from the competition, and his complete recipe.

Petr Bachan is a native Czech now living in Minneapolis. He wanted to produce an everyday beer typical of his little hometown, Hluk in Moravia, that he can no longer find now that he lives in the United States. He called his beer Hlučan desítka, which translates as a 10 °P beer from his hometown. He said the word desítka translates as “tenner,” as in, “hey bartender, I’ll have a tenner.” He also said that if you were in your local pub where everyone knew you, you’d probably just order jedno (one). A more generic name for this beer would be výčepní desítka (draft 10).

Petr said his goal for the beer was to create a malty profile with more flavor and aroma from hops, with a medium body and high head retention. His recipe is based on methods he found that worked well on his Recirculating Infusion Mash System (RIMS) equipment. He said that with this system he isn’t able to use a traditional decoction mash program when using highly modified malt since he isn’t able to raise temperatures fast enough to avoid fully converting the malt. His workaround is to use a higher temperature rest (156 °F/76 °C) to promote body, followed by a single decoction mash to add color and flavor. Petr said Czech homebrewers call this a “false decoction” since it isn’t used as part of the conversion.

His recipe (generously provided by him on page 31) uses 87% Pilsner malt, with 5% Caravienne, 4.5% wheat malt, and 3.5% acid malt with Czech Saaz and German Magnum hops. The Caravienne (sometimes called Belgian Cara 20) is a crystal malt of around 20 °L color. The wheat is for head retention and the acid malt is to help hit a proper mash pH (5.2 to 5.3, measured at room temperature). He uses first wort hopping and a whirlpool hop addition to increase hop flavor and aroma.

Petr’s yeast choice was Wyeast 2633 (Oktoberfest Blend), but he was reusing yeast from a prior batch. He said any clean malty German or Czech yeast would work, including White Labs WLP833 (German Bock Lager), WLP800 (Pilsner Lager), WLP830 (German Lager), or Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager). He starts his fermentation cold, then allows it to rise to a typical lager fermentation temperature. He uses a diacetyl rest if necessary, but warns against allowing the beer to attenuate completely as a little bit of residual extract is necessary for the right flavor profile.

I spoke to Al Boyce, a BJCP Grand Master IV judge, who was on the Best of Show panel. He said the beer was presented as a “Czech half-Pilsner, a lower-gravity (3.5%) version of a Czech Pilsner.” He said his first impression was of a very strong Saaz hop aroma, and a very clean, sweet Pils malt flavor. The bitterness was assertive, yet scaled down and perfectly balanced with the lower level of malt and alcohol. It was bright yellow and brilliantly clear, with a half-inch white head that slowly dissipated. Al closed by remarking “in short, it was a session Bohemian Pils; I wish it were on tap at my local tap room!” OK, I’m sold.

When I asked Petr about his recommendations for homebrewers to produce a proper Czech pale lager, he provided these tips:

  1. Convert the mash at a high rest temperature (156 °F/69 °C).
  2. Use a single false decoction with highly modified malt (most German malts), or a double decoction with undermodified malts (Czech malts, or the Weyermann Floor-Malted Bohemian Pilsner malt, for example).
  3. Experiment with late and whirlpool hopping to enhance hop flavor.
  4. Experiment with arresting the fermentation to keep the beer from being too dry, too thin, or with an overly accentuated bitterness. He suggests trying to stop the beer about 2 gravity points (0.002) above the completely fermented level. Cold crashing and racking the beer can be used; a slight diacetyl character may remain.

Depending on your preferences and your homebrew equipment (as well as your available time on brew day), you can brew this style using Petr’s method or the more traditional decoction mash process I described. I like his use of the modern hopping methods to boost the hop profile.

This style of beer is perfect for homebrewers since it is not available to most people. If you want to drink it, you’ll have to either travel to the Czech Republic or make it yourself.

The production methods are fairly unique to Czech beers, so if you’re looking for something different than your normal brew session, this could be for you. If you’re in the mood for a lower-alcohol beer, Czech pale lager is a nice alternative to making session IPAs or English bitters. The ingredients used are widely available, so why not Czech it out?

Recipe

Czech Pale Lager

  • (5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
  • OG = 1.042, FG = 1.011
  • IBU = 29, SRM = 3.8, ABV = 4.1%

by Petr Bachan • Minneapolis, Minnesota

Ingredients

  • 7.5 lbs. (3.4 kg) German Pilsner malt
  • 7 oz. (0.2 kg) Caravienne malt (22 °L)
  • 6 oz. (0.17 kg) German wheat malt
  • 5 oz. (0.14 g) German acidulated malt (sauermalz)
  • 3 AAU Magnum hops (first wort hop) (0.25 oz./7 g at 12% alpha acids)
  • 2 AAU Czech Saaz hops (30 min.) (0.75 oz./21 g at 2.6% alpha acids)
  • 2.6 AAU Czech Saaz hops (10 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 2.6% alpha acids)
  • 3.6 AAU Magnum hops (10 min.) (0.3 oz./9 g at 12% alpha acids)
  • 1 oz. (28 g) Czech Saaz hops (0 min.)
  • Wyeast 2633 (Oktoberfest Lager Blend) yeast
  • 3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)

Step by Step

This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. The water salt treatments are minimal; add 5 g calcium chloride (CaCl2) to the mash and 3 g CaCl2 to the sparge water. The acidulated malt is used to reach the desired mash pH; do not omit this ingredient unless you acidify your mash water. Do not add additional water salts to lower the pH; a minerally water character is inappropriate for this style.

Two or three days before brew day, make a 2-qt. (2-L) yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast. On brew day, mash in at 156 °F (69 °C) in 14 qts. (13 L) of water and hold this temperature until converted, 30 to 45 minutes. Pull a thick decoction of at least half the mash, then boil the decoction until it changes color and consistency, about 25 minutes. Stir the decoction frequently to avoid scorching. Return the decoction to the main mash and hold at 168 °F (76 °C) for mash out. Recirculate until clear, fly sparge with 168 °F (76 °C) water until 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort is collected.

Boil the wort for 90 minutes, adding the hops at times indicated in the recipe. First wort hops are added to the kettle before the wort is run off. After adding the final hops when the heat is turned off, immediately begin chilling the wort. Chill to 43–45 °F (6–7 °C). Chilling to this low temperature may take two cooling stages or the use of an ice bath to reduce the temperature of the cooling water.

Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast starter. Allow fermentation temperature to rise to no more than 50 °F (10 °C) until desired final gravity (FG) is achieved. Then rack and slowly chill to lagering temperature. Lager for 4 to 6 weeks at 33 °F (1 °C). Prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate to 2.4 volumes.

The original recipe used Best Malz for the base malt, a fully modified malt. If using an undermodified malt (such as Weyermann Floor-Malted Bohemian Pilsner malt), a true double decoction mash schedule can be used as described in the article. If using the Weyermann malt, you can also substitute the Weyermann Carabohemian® malt for the Caravienne. These products are malted specifically for making Czech-style beers.

Czech Pale Lager

  • (5 gallons/19 L, extract with grain)
  • OG = 1.042, FG = 1.011
  • IBU = 29, SRM = 3.8, ABV = 4.1%.

Ingredients

  • 5.5 lbs. (2.5 kg) liquid Pilsner malt extract
  • 4 oz. (0.11 kg) Caravienne malt
  • 4 oz. (0.11 kg) German caramel wheat malt (45 °L)
  • 3 AAU Magnum hops (60 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 12% alpha acids)
  • 2 AAU Czech Saaz hops (30 min.) (0.75 oz./21 g at 2.6% alpha acids)
  • 2.6 AAU Czech Saaz hops (10 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 2.6% alpha acids)
  • 3.6 AAU Magnum hops (10 min.) (0.3 oz./9 g at 12% alpha acids)
  • 1 oz. (28 g) Czech Saaz hops (0 min.)
  • Wyeast 2633 (Oktoberfest Lager Blend) yeast
  • 3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)

Step by Step

Use 6 gallons (23 L) of RO water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C). Add 3 g calcium chloride to the water. Place the Caravienne and caramel wheat malt in a mesh bag, and steep in the hot water for 30 minutes. Remove the mesh bag, then turn the heat off.

Add the liquid malt extract and stir thoroughly to dissolve the extract completely. You do not want to feel liquid extract at the bottom of the kettle when stirring with your spoon. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil. Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding the hops at the times indicated in the recipe.

After adding the final hops when the heat is turned off, immediately begin chilling the wort. Chill to 43– 45 °F (6–7 °C). Chilling to this low temperature may take two cooling stages or the use of an ice bath to reduce the temperature of the cooling water. Oxygenate the wort, then pitch the yeast starter. Allow the fermentation temperature to rise to no more than 50 °F (10 °C) until the desired FG is achieved. Taste the beer for diacetyl; if noticeable diacetyl is present, raise the temperature to 65 °F (18 °C) for two days. Rack and slowly chill to lagering temperature. Lager for 4 to 6 weeks at 33 °F (1 °C). Prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate to 2.4 volumes.

from BYO

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